Salt Lake Rub Rankings: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding and Improving Your Score

Salt Lake City's vibrant climbing scene has led to the development of a unique ranking system for bouldering problems, often referred to as "Salt Lake Rub Rankings." Unlike standardized grading systems like the Fontainebleau scale or the Hueco Tanks system, the Salt Lake Rub system is more localized and often reflects the specific characteristics of the sandstone found in the area. Understanding this system is crucial for climbers visiting or residing in Salt Lake City, ensuring you select problems appropriate for your skill level and avoid frustrating experiences.

What are Salt Lake Rub Rankings?

Salt Lake Rub Rankings represent a somewhat informal yet widely understood grading system used within the climbing community in and around Salt Lake City. It's built on a combination of factors that go beyond just the physical difficulty, incorporating the texture, type of rock, and the overall feel of the climb. This makes it slightly less precise than some other numerical systems, relying more on shared community experience and judgment. The rankings generally use a letter system (e.g., V0, V1, V2, etc.) often accompanied by descriptive modifiers.

Key Factors Influencing Salt Lake Rub Rankings:

• Sandstone Texture: Salt Lake City's sandstone is known for its unique texture. Some areas are incredibly smooth, others are incredibly rough, and this drastically impacts the difficulty of a problem, regardless of its physical moves. A V2 on a smooth, polished section might feel harder than a V2 on a heavily textured face.

• Hold Quality: The quality of the holds (their size, shape, and how well they "stick") plays a huge role. A problem might seem physically easy, but poor hold quality can make it surprisingly difficult.

• Problem Style: The type of movement involved— whether it's powerful, technical, dynamic, or static—significantly influences the ranking. A dynamic problem might be ranked higher than a static problem of similar physical difficulty.

• Local Consensus: Ultimately, the ranking of a problem often comes down to the consensus of experienced local climbers. This makes the system fluid and subject to some variation based on individual climber's experience and preferences.

Understanding the Modifiers:

While the V-scale (V0, V1, V2, etc.) provides a base level of difficulty, Salt Lake Rub Rankings often use additional modifiers to refine the assessment. These might include:

• +" (Plus): Indicates a problem is slightly harder than the base grade. A V2+ is harder than a V2 but easier than a V3.

• -" (Minus): Indicates a problem is slightly easier than the base grade. A V3- is easier than a V3 but harder than a V2.

• "Crux-Specific Modifiers": Climbers might add descriptions like "cruxy," "powerful," "technical," or "balancey" to provide further context about the type of challenge the problem presents.

Tips for Navigating Salt Lake Rub Rankings:

• Start with easier routes: Don't be afraid to start at the lower grades, especially if you're unfamiliar with Salt Lake sandstone.
• Consult local guidebooks and online resources: These provide valuable insight into specific problems and their rankings. Mountain Project is a good starting point.
• Talk to local climbers: Experienced climbers can provide invaluable advice on the nuances of Salt Lake Rub Rankings and problem selection.
• Pay attention to hold quality: Don't just look at the movement; assess the quality of the holds themselves.
• Don't be afraid to downgrade or upgrade: The rankings are just a guideline, and your own experience might differ.

Conclusion:

Salt Lake Rub Rankings are a unique system reflecting the idiosyncrasies of the local climbing environment. By understanding the factors that contribute to these rankings and using the tips outlined above, you can better plan your climbing sessions, choose problems appropriate to your skill level, and maximize your enjoyment of Salt Lake City's fantastic climbing areas. Remember that climbing is about fun and safety, so always prioritize safe climbing practices regardless of the problem's grade.